September 2011

So I missed a Wednesday update. Though I’ve been updating this thingy more regularly so I don’t mind. I wish I could show you what I’m up to but my house is still a damn construction site, so here’s what I plan to show during the next week (things hopefully going back to normal).

Painted Cryx battlegroup

Painted Cryx bile thralls unit

Painted Khador Kodiak

Yeah, promises without pics suck, but just letting you guys know everything’s still a mess down here. Also, the blogosphere keeps fixed on the god awful little plastic ships from the upcoming game from Nottingham. They look like Kinder toys to be honest.

Also, I might have some stuff for sale in the upcoming weeks. I need to clean the cabinets!

I follow an extensive amount of wargames blog. One of the things I like to do is subscribe to them via Google Reader and go back as far as the archive would let me, and I explore the whole thing. Some blogs go so far that I’ve been reading old posts for a whole year before reaching the latest updates.

Most, invariably, some time along the first couple of months reach to a question aimed at the readers. “What would you like to see?” Most as well get about 3 answers. All different, of course.

So next time you think about this, why don’t you simply try to think what YOU enjoy of wargames blogs? Think about that, and apply if possible. Ok, so you love watching guys put together expensive japanese resin kits but there’s no way in hell you’ll afford those. But still, what do you love the most? A ton of pictures? Detailed explanations of the building process? Description of the tools and the brands or where to get them? The way he or she organizes the info for easy access later? Think about all those things, and make a blog you would read. That’s the way to always have something interesting to do and share.

Want an example? Let’s use oMAD (of course, right?)

So I like battle reports. But I like them with a ton of pics and as little and basic text as possible. I also like when most updates have some kind of pictures. Either finished stuff or work in progress or even anything remotely related to wargaming (recent purchases, tools, the workbench, your cat stealing that figure, etc.). I also love game design rants. I don’t need pics for that. I like game design and enjoy reading about it, even when the game theme or style or even design ethos isn’t my cup of tea. I love small, focused general (wargaming related) rants as well… scroll down one post and see!!

So it’s no wonder I try to update this little thing with that kind of stuff. Lots of pics whenever possible, few pics when randomly updating, game design talk, easy access to all the galleries, articles, and battreps, you get the point.

There are millions of reasons to start a gaming blog. But once you’re down the only way to keep it interesting is making it interesting for you first and foremost. This isn’t your job after all.

Ok amazing, interesting, and overall reading-worthy wargamer bloggers!!! Enough with the fucking Dreadfleet announcement!!

GW makes sure every nerd in the internet hears about the cute, overpriced, limited edition, omgimusthaveitorillbescrewed little game. No need for you guys to post the exact same announcement on every one of your blogs!!!

Interesting to see regular “GW bashers” drool all over the stupid little pieces of plastic though.


Dust Tactics Unleashed
Rules changes for DT to do away with the board, by Guido Quaranta.

Most of these rules are variations to the regular Dust Tactics rules. You need to know the basic game, and most of those rules apply normally. The rules noted as “(extra)” are my own creation for different aspects of the game. More on them on the Designer’s notes at the end.

Remember this is a living document. I will update this post, and let you know via blog post when I do.

Latest version: September 2011

Distances: 1 square = 6 inches

Squad formation
Models in a squad must remain within 2 inches of a leader model. There must always be a leader model in the unit. If the leader model is removed as a casualty, immediately choose another model. When a hero starts the game inside a squad, he/she is the leader.

Line of sight and shooting
Every weapon line can shoot at a different target. Only the models with LOS (line of sight) to the target can shoot though. Distance is measured from the base of the nearest model with the weapon to the base of the nearest model in the target unit. Always measure from the models’ base edges. Every model shooting must have LOS to the target, but distance is only measured from and to the closest models.

Limited-ammo weapons can be fired by any model (as normal), but those shooting must have LOS to the target.

A player can remove any figure from his/her target unit taking casualties, even those out of LOS from the firing models (exception: Sniper special rule).

The models from an active squad do not block LOS to other squad members. Nor do they block movement (they can move through models in their own squad).

Squads block LOS to other squads (as in the normal rules). Consider the space between models of a single squad as a solid screen. For robots, consider their bases as blocking LOS.

Firing flame weapons
Make a template 2 inches wide by the needed length (6, or 12 inches, depending on the weapon). Place it against the nearest base edge of the firing figure, towards the closest model in the target unit. Any unit the template touches (except the one from the firing model) is affected, whether friend or foe.

Close combat
Close combat weapons have a range of 2 inches. If at least one figure from the active unit is within that distance from an enemy, they can fight using CC weapons. When a unit attacks with CC weapons, the whole unit fights (not only the ones 2 inches from an enemy). Also, every model from the target unit gets to fight back.

Cover and scenery
Area terrain: It’s represented by a small area (the size of a CD is perfect) where you place cover elements (tank traps, ammo crates, etc.). If half or more of the squad is completely inside an area terrain they gain the corresponding cover save.

Ruined buildings (extra): They block LOS to everyone like obstacles do. Walkers and vehicles cannot enter this terrain. They provide hard cover to squads inside. If there are several levels of height, it takes one action to move up or down a level. Squads in higher levels can trace LOS over squads, tank traps, ammo crates, but not over walkers, other buildings or obstacles.

Changes to skills
Agile: The unit moves 10 inches per move point instead of 6.

Activation roll (extra)
Every unit must roll 3d before activating. Heroes, or units with heroes attached to them roll 4d. Check the result on the table below.

0 hits: The unit doesn’t do anything this turn. Counts as activated.
1-2 hits: The unit activates normally.
3+ hits: The unit activates and has an extra action.

If the unit activates using Reactive Fire (or fails to do so) it doesn’t need to make an activation roll.

Armor saves (extra)
Only infantry squads get armor saves. The roll is made every time a squad takes casualties from a weapon line shot at them, as many times per turn as needed. This means that a unit targeted by another one, shot with 3 different weapon lines, will roll armor saves 3 times, and not just one after all the casualties have been added.

If the save succeeds, the unit doesn’t receive casualties. If it fails, the unit can still make any relevant cover save (if available).

Armor saves are made with 4d. The armor of the squad determines the result needed for a successful save.

Inf1: 4 hits to save.
Inf2: 3 hits to save.
Inf3: 2 hits to save.
Inf4: 1 hit to save.

Armor saves cannot be made in close combat.

Designer’s notes
So, I craved for two aspects of the rules that were very important when creating rules changes. First, to use only the numbers on the cards. No extra attributes or anything. Second, to use the DT dice. No need to get or roll other type of dice.

Now, the most obvious changes are the activation roll and the armor saves. Let’s talk a second about them.

The activation roll is mainly my first try to make it more enjoyable to solitaire play. When I play solo, I apply the activation roll to either both armies or just one, and add a bit of uncertainty to the battle. Other mechanisms would be needed to make it more enjoyable, and I’m working on that.

The armor save seems a bit strange. But already the game design has included the different infantry armor to its ethos, so I might as well use it. If you see clearly, the chances of making a save are very low considering most troops right now are Inf2. But still, they do add a tiny bit more survivability to the whole game. Why is this necessary though? Well, I believe that the board game is quick and deadly, and I love it. But when setting up a tabletop game, we usually go a bit larger. The play area is bigger, there is more scenery, if only because the movement and shooting distances are a bit larger. However, I still enjoy playing with few units, and this gives me a slightly longer game, and also another bit of unpredictability. I am developing a simple system for the walkers, not in the form of saves but in the different ways that they can be affected beyond the simple “alive” and “dead” states.

Hope you can try them out and enjoy them.

So as I finish translating my changes to Dust Tactics to play them without the board, Fantasy Flight releases a Design Diary post by Andy Chambers about the upcoming Dust Warfare. I was intrigued. Sadly it says absolutely nothing. Zero. Squat. Go read it if you really want to, but it really has no content whatsoever. Anyway, later today or tomorrow I’ll share my little design experiment to play DT without the board.

And pssst. I’m developing it to be solo friendly as well.

Last week a painting article. This Wednesday it’s battle report time!

This is from long ago. One “Small Table Game Day” when my gf and I played a couple of Warmachine games (already somewhere in the blog) and in between those we played a quick LotR game. The scenario is one from the Khazad-dum book and has dwarves protecting the giant mountainside door mechanism so goblins cannot enter from the other side. I ran the goblins trying to open the gates while she ran the dwarves.

I had 10 turs to do it, and every goblin dead had a chance to enter back into the game on the next turn. I actually won on the 10th turn, which was the most exciting part of the game. Not a lot happened otherwise as it’s usual on LotR published scenarios. Not a lot of tactical depth either. I find I enjoy this game more with my Isildur’s Bane solitaire hack which adds a lot of uncertainty to an otherwise dull gameplay. Most of the pics were taken by her, therefore they don’t suck. Also, that good camera (my brother’s) got recently stolen, so I’m sharing this mainly cause of the great pics. Enjoy!


So I’m painting my Cryx. I wanted a completely rusty, old, decaying metal on them. Not just some rust effects, but completely messed up “undead” looking metal plates and joints. And for once in like 15 years, I went from theory to practice with the same actual results! So here’s how I did this.

I painted my model with chainmail from Citadel Colour. You can see the little guy down here, but of course I needed to experiment somewhere else, so he was not the test subject after all. I decided to try this on a piece of plastic scenery I had lying around.

1- Paint your metal on your figure. Easy, done. Now, the next steps are done with a wash and some Tamiya weathering powder. I swear, I never learned to use that bastard, but I thought it would be useful. I scratch some powder on a palette and mix it up with some Devlan Mud wash.

2- Once the metal is dry, I apply this orange wash all over. I wait for it to dry, and apply a second wash of similar color and texture. Down here you can see both of them. The second one takes the metal to a quite bright tone. Metallic paint still coming through the wash, which is great.

3- After the second wash is dry, I do a simple wash of Devlan Mud to mess it up and darken the recesses. After that is dry, I make another wash like before, only this time making it very orange, and thick as normal paint. I apply that to raised areas and exposed metal, anywhere you want your rust to be more obvious. Below you can see both of these steps.

4- Light a cig and continue to paint the figure. Yeah! That’s it! And the results are way more than satisfactory. At least for me. The bare plastic around the painted example gives me a comparison to check how real the effect looks. I think it will do great.

1. Paint your metal
2. Wash with mix of Devlan Mud (or any other oily, dark wash) and Tamiya weathering powder (or any other brand you like).
3. Wash again with the above mix.
4. Wash with Devlan Mud.
5. Detail with a thicker, more orange version of the first wash.

Here’s some detail pics.

I’ve already applied this technique to the test model, and it’s great. You will see the little guy painted here in a couple of days. Hope you can use this technique!!

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